Part 2: Srinagar | Reaching and accommodations.
One of the most common questions is, “How to reach Srinagar?” Well, it totally depends, on your traveling preference and there is really no specific recommendation on this one. I prefer both, via road and via air. Via road, there are two routes from Jammu, i.e. NH-1 and second one is the Mughal road. Both these routes have their own charm, however, NH-1, being a 4 lane highway, is much safer and faster route as compared to the latter.
Let us dig into road route a bit deeper. Many travelers prefer to travel in the night, however I strictly recommend you to avoid the night travel, that’s because due to security reasons, the officials do not permit car to travel past the incredible 2.8 km (1.7 mi), Jawahar Tunnel (aka Banihal Tunnel). So most of the taxis, buses and other personal vehicles are made to rest near Ramban area. And for that reason, I recommend to hire a taxi (or if you own a vehicle) and leave as early as 6 AM or 7 AM. It takes approximately 8 – 9 hours to reach from Jammu to Srinagar, as they are over 300 (Now I believe less due to recent 9.2 km Chenani-Nashri Tunnel). A full taxi may charge between Rs. 4000/- to 5000/- for a drop from Jammu to Srinagar. However, shared seat system is also very common in Jammu, which may cost you between Rs. 800/- to 1000/-.
Seven things that you shouldn’t miss while coming from Jammu to Srinagar via road, are:
- Prem Sweets’ Patisa (J&K Version of Sohan Papdi) at Kud, Patnitop .
- Rajmah-Rice with Desi Ghee lunch at Sharma Dhaba at Peerha.
- A good look at Avalanche prone Shaitani Nalah.
- A good look at Landslide prone Khooni Nalah.
- The first view of Kashmir Valley after Banihal Tunnel.
- A good look at the saffron farms, Pampore.
- The eventual change in weather and the Himalayan mountainous terrain turning into a pure valley.
This is something one has to experience, at-least once while visiting Srinagar. I personally love this road route via NH-1. However, while returning from Srinagar to Jammu, surprisingly doesn’t appeals as much as the other way round. Then there is another way to travel, i.e. via Airlines. To reach Srinagar, it takes approximately half hour from Jammu, around 1.30 hours from New Delhi, 3 hours from Mumbai and 4:30 hours from Bangalore as well as Kolkata.
Another important question which many ask, and that is, “Where to stay in Srinagar?”
Well, as I mentioned in my previous blog, it totally depends on your budget. However, in this blog, I will try to help you with most of the options, but I definitely would be giving my personal recommendations and opinion on staying.
Here are three important things to know before you book your hotel:
- Budget: Srinagar has hotels available from mere 800-1000/- budget hotels to luxury deluxe hotels which can go as much as 25000/- to 30000/-.
- Location: You must keep this in mind whenever you are planning to visit Srinagar that are you going to roam around the city, are you seeking accommodation near airport, are you seeking an isolated place where you can have some personal time etc.
- Ease of commuting: How to deal bad weather, distance from city center/airport/taxi stand etc.
Without these three things, there is no point on looking at booking.com or makemytrip.com or any other similar sites. If you are booking a houseboat, in that case you need to be aware that there are generally three locations in Srinagar, where house boats are available:
- Dal Lake: This is the prime location and at the center of the city. All attractions are close by and easily accessible.
- Nigeen Lake: Via road, you have to travel quite a bit to be at Nigeen Lake, however it is also connected to Dal Lake, which means, you can also travel from Dal Lake to Nigeen Lake via Shikara or boat. Nigeen
- Jhelum River: This is also close to the city center, however kind of isolated and houseboats are on Jehlum River. You also won’t find many posh houseboat options here.
Let me now explain you in detail, the difference between staying in a houseboat and hotel. At a hotel, you have a convenience of being on land, walk till late evening and walk up to your hotel, hire a local auto rickshaw and roam across the city. During checkout, you can ask your hotel host to accommodate a taxi and they will be available right at your hotel parking lot. Houseboat on the other hand, are not directly connected to boulevard, so you have to ask your houseboat host to accommodate a boat for you to take you to the nearest boulevard Shikara stand. However few houseboats on Jhelum and Nigeen have access to adjoining road. Also, these houseboats do not take you for ride across the Dal/Nigeen Lake. They just stand still and actually nothing but static floating homes. For rides, they have Shikara services available. Also, most of the houseboats accommodate multiple guests however you can ask the Houseboat host, if individual houseboats/secluded rooms are available.
But where you should actually stay?
I personally prefer to stay on a houseboat at Dal Lake, where I get better scenery and access to several aquatic activities. Otherwise, I would prefer to stay at a hotel on Boulevard Road. Below are my recommendations:
- The Lalit Grand Palace (18000-25000): This is a good heritage property with a huge space that include a golf course, cherry and apple orchard, a huge garden and situated right at the main Boulevard road. The rooms are alright, nothing too fascinating other than their view of their incredible garden. Washrooms are also conventional ones, nothing special. Breakfast is nice and gives you a very royal feel if they accommodate their breakfast under the Chinar at the garden. If you are booking this, doesn’t matter if your room are on first floor or the ground floor. Private cottages are also available, price varies.
- Vivanta Dal View (12000-16000): Another Luxury hotel, located at an elevation overseeing the Dal. This is a new property, so rooms and washrooms are comfortable.
- Fortune Resort Heevan (9000-12000): Another good luxury hotel and under ITC banner. Rooms are fine, but food is better than aforementioned hotels.
There are many hotels which are also close to Hotels, however, I felt aren’t really worth to stay so far from the city center. Yes, the check-in process at Srinagar can vary from 1 hour to 3 hours, so you have to reach before three hours of the departure. In that case and if you have an early flight, stay at hotel near the airport is recommended. Out of many options, the most appropriate one is “Hotel Regency Luxury”.
Below this there are other options as well, were you can spend between 6000-8000 for a good accommodation, these hotels include Four Points by Sheraton, Radisson Blu, Lemon Tree etc.
If you are planning to find even cheaper accommodation, you can google it up, but ensure you find your accommodation near Boulevard road, Polo View, Sonwar, Dal Gate, Residency Road and MA Road. I personally would recommend you to stay in one of the houseboats if you don’t prefer to spend on a hotel.
For Houseboats, it again depends on your budget and requirement. For first timers, I recommend you to stay at Dal Lake. There is a budget houseboat, which goes by the name of “Dawn Group of Houseboats”. They can accommodate you if your budget is 5000/- or less. The best part of staying at this house boat is its location. You have no obstruction in the front. You have a view of Shankara Charaya Temple, Lalit Grand Palace and Char Chinar. This House boat isn’t even expensive. If you contact the owners, mention my Blog name, “Cream of Yesterdays!” for added discounts. Service at Dawn houseboat is incredible and food is fantastic. This houseboat is also vegetarian friendly and they can accommodate your diet needs, even if you have a Jain/vegan diet, they have you covered. They are known to accommodate many expats with repeated guest list. They can be contacted at “099067 09714”.
Then there are two houseboats, which are located in Nigeen Lake, “Butt’s Clermont” and “Mascot Group of Houseboats”. They both are priced between 13000/- to 20000/-. Butts Clermont is a historical houseboat, which in past has accommodated important figures such as Beatles’, John McCain, Michael Palin etc. to name a few and they are known for their food and hospitality. Butt’s Clermont is also the only Houseboat group, who have access to a private Mughal Garden. Imagine an evening tea at the beautiful Mughal Garden? Mascot group on the other hand comes with modern facilities, with their suite being one of the best features.
There are many other options which you can find online, the best way to do that is to check the reviews. However, when you are traveling for the first time and don’t want to leave disappointed, I would certainly recommend my opinion on accommodation.
I hope you find this blog informative. On my next blog, I will be covering Do’s and Don’ts at Gulmarg and a detailed review of Gulmarg’s Khyber Himalayan resort. Your kind feedback is welcome!
Good day! 🙂