Part 1: Srinagar | First timer’s preparations and basics
First of all, I understand, we are going through one of the worst phases of our lives. The pandemic has taken a heavy toll, especially on tourism. I am hopeful that things will settle sooner rather than later and tourist destinations will welcome us all with their arms wide open. I hope this blog encourages you to mentally prepare yourself to travel as soon the Covid-19 dust settles.
I have been an avid traveler and Kashmir is one of my favorite places to travel and if given a chance, I can travel there any day, no questions asked. There are few common questions that people ask me all the times. Is Kashmir safe? How to travel? What things do we need to keep in mind? Is it expensive? Well, I understand many of you aspire to visit Kashmir and want to feel comfortable and safe. More importantly all Kashmir trip aspirants want to make their memories happy. Well, in this short series, I will tell you all what you can do in Kashmir and not struggle like a conventional tourist. Forget about booking an expensive package through unworthy travel companies. I will try to answer your all unanswered questions from a perspective of someone who aspired to travel to Kashmir once, just like you.
So without further ado, let us begin this mini-series. In this article, I will cover Srinagar. Things that you can do, where to live and what not to do while in Srinagar. So let us begin…!
Is Srinagar Safe?
Well, this is one of the common queries. Let me answer this by saying, what happens when a guest visits you? You honor them and treat them with utmost care and respect, isn’t it? That’s exactly how you are treated in Kashmir! I have travelled across India and to be honest, I have felt the most comfortable in Kashmir. Not just because of the scenic beauty, which without any question is incredible, but because of people. People are so friendly that they go extra mile to exhibit hospitality. There hasn’t been one single place where we felt out of the place. Be it a hotel, a boat, a house boat, restaurant, garden, store or any public place. People are loving and incredibly warm hearted. The best thing about being a tourist in Kashmir is that you will never feel bothered. If you are intending to sleep on the backwaters of Dal Lake amidst lotus leaf congregation, be assured, the Shikara (traditional Dal Lake boat) rower will let you design your own gig and won’t bother you. At the main waterfront, it is likely that you will encounter vendors and sellers (artificial Jewelers, handicraft, barbeque, flowers etc.) in boat, however you can let your Shikara rower know in advance that you would like to maintain your privacy and he certainly can handle that. This is customary that such vendors also visit you in hotels and house boats, but you can let your host know, if you would like to avoid this engagement. There are several restaurants, gardens, lakes, heritage sites, shopping areas, religious places (mosques, temples, gurudwaras and churches) etc. You can visit them all and remain comfortable as you won’t feel pushed neither unsafe.
Where to eat?
All hotels and houseboats are vegetarian friendly. It is always advisable to get in touch with your accommodation host in advance (i.e. before you visit), who you can instruct about your diet preferences and likings. I prefer eating vegetarian food and I was surprised to see so many options available for vegetarians in Kashmir. However, if you prefer a non-vegetarian diet, be assured, Kashmiri food is a heaven for you, which I will talk cover in detail in my upcoming blog. Also, kindly note, that there is a lot of stereotype across the internet, local Kashmiris are aware that there are certain foods which majority of people avoid and certain which are welcomed by any group. So don’t worry and enjoy any restaurant whichever you would like to visit and if you have any doubts, you can always ask your restaurant manager or House boat cook. So, if you are visiting, followings are what I would like to recommend you to go for:
- Krishna Vaishno Dhaba: This is considered to be one of the most promising pure vegetarian dhabas in Srinagar. Try their Rajmah, Dal Butter Fry, Aloo Gobhi, Malai Kofta, Shahi Paneer, and Parathas.
- Ahdoo’s: According to 92.7 Big FM, Ahdoo’s is one of top 1000 restaurants in the world and one of top 100 restaurants in India. Talking about Wazwan, if you are in Srinagar and looking forward to devour on the classical Kashmiri Trami, this is the place to be. Not just their food, their Bakery is incredible as well. Do not forget to pack some Walnut and Strawberry cookies on your way back. Trust me, it will be better than a conventional souvenir. They still bake in clay over, which makes your experience almost historical. Last but not the least, do not leave without having a rich cup of Kashmiri Saffron Kehwa. Apart than Ahdoos, you can also try J&K Tourism’s Wazwan restaurant, Mughal Darbar, Café De Linz, Shamyana, Treat to name a few. You can find more options online, but the names I have suggested are my personal recommendations and that I have first-hand experience with them all.
- Any local baker: They call a Kashmiri Baker, “Kandur/Kandru”. Ask any local or auto Rickshaw walah or any street vendor, the directions for a Kashmiri local baker. Once you are there, do not miss on trying the incredible “Chochowr” bread. If you are in Srinagar, grab some Girdha, Bakarkhani as well as local Kulcha (All are different type of breads), enjoy them with a Nun Chai (Salted Herbal Kashmiri Tea) and butter. By the way, near Dal Gate, there are few good bakers. However, if we talk about entire Kashmir, on the way to Pahalgham, there is a place that goes by the name, “Brij Behara”, is by far the best place to have these local breads.
- Local Masale Tchot (Spicy Roti) Vendor: You can find them anywhere across the streets. Grab a Masale Tchot and enjoy while you relish your window shopping at Residency Road or a walk by the boulevard road. I have observed most of the them available during mornings.
- Kashmiri Tujj/Tujji shacks (Kashmiri Barbeque Skewers) at Khayam: When we talk about non-vegetarian delicacies, Khayam market has you covered. They begin in the evenings and this incredible place serves you with several types of barbeques, be it Seekh, Tikka, Tandoori, Afghani, Lamb chops, they have it all. However, the champion is the Tujj/Tujji, which are lamb tikka marinated in Kashmiri spices and barbequed over fresh coal and served with 5-7 incredible chutneys (sauces). If you are in Srinagar and do not visit Khayam market in the evening, you are a sinner.
- Trout dinner at house boats: Staying in a house boat is highly recommended (that I will cover in my next part of the series). When you stay in a houseboat, I would sincerely recommend you to enjoy a dinner at your house boat. Generally the House Boat hosts give you options, however you can yourself request a Trout for dinner. Trout is a fish from Salmon family and considered to be one of the most delicious fresh water fishes.
- Local fruits: Kashmir is a heaven of fruits. Generally, it is extremely cold during winters, that’s why mid-spring to early-autumn is considered to be the best time to visit Kashmir. And if you plan to visit during this time, you can enjoy one of the freshest fruits, which include numerous varieties of apples, plums, pears, apricots, peaches, green almonds, green walnuts, cherries, strawberries and many other local fruits. Most of these fruits are organically grown and inexpensive unlike other major Indian cities.
Where to buy?
One of the shoppers’ attractions in Kashmir is Curtains, Pheran (gowns), Bed covers, Carpets, Shawls, suits, Caps etc. Honestly, shopping is always subjective. You can find genuine products and fake products as well. The best way to buy the products is if you learn how to test genuine products online. Google has you covered and you can find ample of websites that can help you the best way to find whether or not your products are genuine. Having said so, the next question is where to find a good place to shop. Srinagar has many Jammu & Kashmir government authorized stores where you can buy genuine products. Otherwise, you can always ask your local host (Houseboat owners/Hotel managers/Taxi Drivers/Shikara Rower etc). They can suggest you the best places to buy and rest you can test on your own, based on how well you have learned the testing art online.
Where to visit?
I would be covering each city recommendations in my upcoming blog, meanwhile, if you are in Srinagar, I highly recommend you to spend a good afternoon walk across residency road all the way to Polo view and MA Road, an evening walking by the boulevard, A private taxi tour across posh localities such as Gupkar Road, Raj Bagh, Jawahar Nagar, Sanwara, Burzulla, Brain Nishat etc. A Taxi visit across the Dal Lake, Lal Chowk, Kashmir University and of course all the Mughal gardens are also highly recommended.
Is Kashmir expensive?
It totally depends from place to place and city to city. It also depends on the activities you would like to engage yourself in. If you are keen on fishing and not spend much, then you better get a single day fishing license and hire a shikara boat and enjoy your idle evening fishing, otherwise you can enjoy several other water sports such as Kayaking, Water Surfing and Swimming near Nehru Park (Kindly check with the local authority before planning to swim in the lake). You can also visit several websites online and get details about access to several golf courses. Otherwise, if you are staying at one of the luxury hotels such as Lalit Grand Palace, you get access to Golfing, Recreational sports activities etc. Food isn’t expensive if you are eating out and house boats are very cheap for the prices they charge. I’ve stayed at both, expensive as well as inexpensive house boats. Honestly, there wasn’t much difference apart than the tariff and access to associated activities. In my personal opinion, Kashmir is much cheaper than most of the tourist destinations across India.
I hope, all who are planning to travel to Kashmir, find this helpful and informative. In my next blog, I shall be covering the different options (Hotels/Houseboats etc) to stay in Srinagar, accommodation tariffs, best way to reach and other recommendations. Bookmark Cream of Yesterdays! for convenience in accessing more interesting upcoming blogs.
Thank you for your time reading about the basics. If you have any questions, please leave them in the comment section below. Stay tuned…. loads of stories are on the way.
Gracias! 🙂